Signs

There has been evidence of spring lately. Last Sunday afternoon it was definitive.

Banks of fog in the morning

Banks of fog in the morning

What you see here is drifts of fog in the low spots off to the east from the mountain at sunrise on Sunday morning, March 31. Saturday had been rainy, but during the night the clouds cleared and there was some nice radiative cooling. That cooled air settled in the low spots and the moisture in the humid air condensed. But that’s not a sign of spring; it’s common all year long. It’s what you don’t see here that is actually a definitive sign of astronomical or solar spring. The view off the deck towards town is due east, and the sun is coming up to the left, or north, in this view. On the first day of astronomical spring the sun rose due east, and since it’s too far north to be visible here, it is, by definition, spring, or at least past the vernal equinox. So at least in the solar sense that is proof, but spring comes at different times in different areas, and the location of the sunrise alone doesn’t mean spring is here on the mountain.

Faded daffodils and vinca

Faded daffodils and vinca

The daffodils have bloomed and faded. But daffodils can bloom early, and ours did. The vinca minor, or lesser periwinkle, in the background, blooms year-round. The blooms are more numerous in the spring, but they’re here all year long. So the daffodils and vinca don’t provide reliable evidence.

A hint of green on the mountain

A hint of green on the mountain

A few trees on the mountain are showing some green. We’re later up here than down in the lower elevations. It’s a sign, but not definitive.

Blackberries greening and maples reddening

Blackberries greening and maples reddening

There’s green on the blackberry bushes and red on the maples.

Pine candles

Pine candles

The pines have brought out their candles but they haven’t been lit yet. I have seen, or rather felt, some pollen on the windshield, but nothing like the coat of gritty yellow we get later in the spring. But I have been seeing candles for a while. Not proof.

Dogwood buds

Dogwood buds

The buds have been on the dogwoods since last year, and they aren’t showing signs of opening yet.

I worked in the yard Saturday, and it was warm enough that I had to stop every few minutes to wipe sweat out of my eyes. But we can get 70-degree days in the dead of winter, so that’s not really a definitive sign.

No, the real sign that spring has arrived was something else that got into my eyes: bugs. The bugs were flying around my face, landing in my ears and committing suicide by diving into my eyes. They will pretty much disappear later as the weather gets really hot, but for the time being, they are a really annoying but pretty much definitive sign that spring is here.

Our baby’s becoming a bottlebrush

My father was born in Floyd County, up in northwest Georgia where we live now. He grew up here, and spent almost his entire life here. He roamed the fields and woods, and he learned to recognize and name most of the plants and animals of this area. He could name just about any bird from its call, and he knew the names of pretty much all the trees. In all the years I spent here, I never once heard him mention the longleaf pine (pinus palustris). We had pines in our back yard, but those were loblollies. There were some Virginia pines around, and a few white pines. The longleaf was completely unknown to me.

But back before the Europeans came to North America, the longleaf pine covered huge areas of the southeastern United Stages, stretching along the coast from Texas to Virginia, and from the coast to the foothills. There are several good sources of information about the longleaf, including one at Auburn University, and one right here next to us at Berry College. One source estimates that longleaf pine forests covered 140,000 square miles. That’s a lot of longleaf pines. Another source estimates that those forests now cover about three percent of the former range. Today, if anyone thinks about the longleaf, they usually think of it as a tree of the coastal plain. I imagine some people whose blogs I read have them around, like Florida Cracker. They may take them for granted. But not me. Not up here in the foothills, far from the coastal plains.

What made the longleaf disappear from so much of its range? Well, it was us, of course. Europeans. We used them for lumber, and we tapped them for turpentine. And when we reforested, we replaced them with faster-growing species like the loblolly. One perhaps unexpected problem for the longleaf was fire suppression. The longleaf is fire resistant, and in fact dependant on that to outcompete other trees and establish healthy stands. With periodic, fairly low-level fires sweeping through the longleaf forests, other types of trees were killed. The longleaf, in all its stages, was more able to withstand fires. So once we started suppressing all fires, both natural and man-made, one of the longleaf’s major advantages disappeared. Not too far over the border from us in Alabama there is a fairly large stand of longleaf pines at Fort McClellan. Military training there inadvertently maintained the longleaf ecosystem through accidental fires. That type of training has stopped, though, and other types of trees have begun to encroach on the longleaf forests.

For many years I never saw a longleaf pine that I recognized as such. I don’t think the idea of a longleaf pine even crossed my mind. That may explain why it took me so long to realize that I was walking through a nice stand of longleaf pines on Lavender Mountain when I took the dog for a walk. I became aware of the fact slowly, and I’m not even sure how. I had walked Zeus, my old dog, around the woods up where we live for quite a while before I realized that I was walking through a longleaf stand. They are mixed with other pines and oaks, but there are actually quite a few, and some nice, big ones.

Mature longleaf pine

Mature longleaf pine

In this picture, the large tree to the right is a longleaf pine. The shorter trees in the foreground are loblolly pines. Behind the big longleaf there are some more longleaf pines and loblollies, along with the typical chestnut oaks that form the majority of the hardwood forest on Lavender Mountain. This lot has been partially cleared and trails have been bulldozed to allow the owner and his friends to drive their off-road vehicles.

I did some reading, and the more I read, the more interested I got. I found the Berry College longleaf pine restoration project in the link above. I thought maybe they didn’t know of the stand near our house, so I contacted Martin Cipollini, who runs Berry’s project. I had suspected that Lavender Mountain was close to the most inland and upland extent of the pine’s range, and he confirmed that, although he said there is another stand somewhat further north.

Once I realized what the longleaf pine was and how it looked, I started seeing them here and there around the mountain. The longleaf has a distinctive look to the needles. Most of the other pines in this area tend to grow needles along the length of a branch up to the tip so that they look like a horse’s tail. The longleaf grows its needles in a round clump at the end of a branch. It looks like a cheerleader’s pom pom. I find it fairly hard to tell some loblollies from a longleaf under some circumstances. Their needles can be long enough to confuse me, a naïve observer. But I usually have no confusion when I actually see a longleaf. That means that if I’m not sure, it’s almost certainly not a longleaf.

There are singletons scattered around, if you know to look for them. I was a little envious to find one growing on an adjacent lot just down from us, near our property line. I almost convinced myself it is on our side of the line, but it isn’t. And then I was excited to find a big one growing on the lower slopes of our lot, surrounded by other types of pine. It’s really hard to see, and I have to convince myself occasionally that it’s really there. It’s surrounded by the weed-like Virginia pines that colonize the disturbed landscape, and a few loblollies. But it’s there. (Now I have to check again.)

These longleaf pines are remnants of the huge stands that were so characteristic of the southeastern forest. They survived the loggers and the sap collectors because they were up on steep ridges that made harvesting the trees impractical. They have remained there for many years, like isolated pools left on the beach as the tide recedes. I think it has probably been at least a century since the rest of the longleaf forests in this area were finally eliminated.

It’s an interesting tree, and different from the other pines of this area. Most pines grow fairly quickly from seedlings, and from the beginning they have a shape not too unlike their mature form. But the longleaf grows slowly, especially at first, and in three distinct stages. The first stage is called the grass stage. In this stage, it is a clump of needles at ground level that looks more like ornamental grass than a tree. Apparently this stage can last up to seven years. At some point, depending on the growing conditions, it initiates upward growth. The trunk will grow, pushing a pom-pom of needles upward with no lateral branches. I have seen trees in this stage up to around six feet tall. This stage is called the bottlebrush stage. It doesn’t usually last as long as the grass stage, but I have seen some that don’t seem to have changed for several years.

Longleaf in the bottlebrush stage

Longleaf in the bottlebrush stage

There are at least two longleaf pines in the bottlebrush stage in this photo. There is one in the background that looks like it might be just starting to branch out. They are quite distinctive, and unlike other pines at this stage of their growth.

A tree in the bottlebrush stage continues to grow comparatively quickly for a few years, eventually sprouting branches and growing taller. It takes the longleaf about 30 years to produce fertile seeds and a tree can live 300 years. There are some reports of trees up to 120 feet tall. None of ours are anywhere near that big. I have no idea how old they are.

I have found a few grass stage longleaf pines on the slopes and in the woods not far from our house. I have also seen some grass stage and adult trees destroyed by off-roaders and by companies contracted to keep powerline rights of way clear of trees. I have watched a couple of large trees slowly decline and die, I assume as a result of the large gashes on their sides caused by off-roaders scraping by them. So when I found several grass-stage trees in areas where I knew they could not survive, I dug them up and brought them home. Unfortunately, it turns out that the grass stage tree, although not tall, can have a deep taproot. Because of the areas where I found them, it wasn’t possible to excavate very deeply, and I ended up unable to get much of the taproot. I took five home. Three died fairly quickly. One survived a couple of years and then died. One has lived. It’s overshadowed by the Virginia pines that infest this area, but I have thinned some of their limbs and the little longleaf actually seems to be doing pretty well. It has continued to sprout new needles and get larger. In fact, it is just starting its development into the bottlebrush stage.

Our baby longleaf

Our baby longleaf

I might be optimistic, but I think it’s starting to show a little trunk under there.

People who live in areas with healthy longleaf forests might wonder why they seem so fascinating to me. But they are rare up here now, and I get some satisfaction from helping at least one little longleaf baby along its journey in life.

Why did the crawfish cross the road?

It seems that I am taking a lot of fog pictures lately. It was very foggy again this morning when I walked Zeke down Fouche Gap Road into Texas Valley. I liked the way the trees in the neighbor’s front yard marched away into invisibility.

Fading into the fog

Fading into the fog

It was not a quiet walk. With the recent rain, there was a lot of water running off the mountain, which made a constant rushing sound everywhere. Lavender Mountain is not a large mountain, so there are no large streams, but there are a lot of small ones. Most are dry most of the time. Only a few are anything near perennial.

As I expected, there was no fog at the bottom of the mountain. In the 20 or 30 minutes it took to reach the bottom of the mountain and come back up, the fog had disappeared up at the top as well. These trees had been shrouded in fog a little while before.

Lichen-covered trees

Lichen-covered trees

There are few cars on Fouche Gap Road, and I have never met another walker. But today I had a surprise.

Keep your distance, hub

“Keep your distance, bub!”

He (she?) was close to four inches long, stretched to full length. Why does a crawfish (crayfish, crawdad) cross the road? Maybe to get from the uphill side to the downhill side where the water was. I have no idea why he was on the uphill side in the first place. He was about two feet into the road, but he wasn’t making much progress, so I helped him along to avoid a crawfish pancake in the middle of the road. He was not appreciative at the time, but I fully expect him to save my life at some future date.

Munching mushrooms

I was browsing some old photos on my iPhone and ran into this one, taken last August. This turtle seemed to be happy chowing down on a mushroom.

Hard to make it out, but he's enjoying the 'shroom

Hard to make it out, but he’s enjoying the ‘shroom

He was actively eating and took no apparent notice of me.

Turtles are not common on Lavender Mountain, or at least I don’t see them very often. I have wondered how they navigate the steep slopes. I keep picturing a turtle stepping off an old road and rolling all the way down to the bottom of the mountain. Wayne, over at niches, keeps track of turtles he sees. I should be more organized. Soon.

Here’s another one I saw earlier.

Easy to lose this little fellow

Easy to lose this little fellow

It would have been easy to overlook this one, but he’s about as cute as a turtle can be, so I’m glad I didn’t.

Zeke and I (and Zeus before him) have four main paths through the woods, and two down Fouche Gap Road. We have walked a lot of miles over the last seven years and I have seen turtles only about five times, including once in our back yard and once as a bleached, white shell.  But they are quiet and slow moving, most of the time, so they are easy to miss.

Fox news

In mild weather our dog Zeke likes to hang out on the elevated walk leading to our front door. It’s built like a deck with a gate, so he can’t get out into the yard. In the spring of 2011, he started barking at something in the side yard (which would be the back yard if I had oriented the house differently). It got to be a regular occurrence in the evening as it was beginning to get dark. We eventually saw what it was.

I see you looking at me

I see you looking at me

The fox paid no attention to the barking, and very little attention to us when we came out to look.

I think it was a red fox, based on the coloration and the black stockings. I am a little uncertain about this since he’s not really all that red. He also doesn’t have a very prominent white tip to his tail. But it doesn’t much resemble pictures of the gray fox I have seen. I wasn’t aware that the red fox is an imported canid, brought over by the English, naturally. The gray fox is the native, but the red fox has moved into essentially all the same habitats.

We began to see the fox quite often. Once, early on, he seemed to be a little uncertain, so he hid. Or at least he thought he did.

This shrub is not quite big enough

This shrub is not quite big enough

This seems to be the same fox in the spring of 2012.

Spring 2012

Spring 2012

This fox (I assume it was always the same fox) was completely indifferent to our presence on the deck watching him. Once he actually lay down in the back yard, not far from the deck.

Let's take it easy for a while

Let’s take it easy for a while

And then he took a nap.

Nappy time

Nappy time

After a short time, he got up, pooped, and walked casually into the woods. I don’t know whether it was an editorial comment, but it convinced me that foxes and dogs share a similar sense of humor.

A breeding pair had a den somewhere nearby, probably across Wildlife Trail, which runs down the side of our lot. I heard and saw the fox on the road occasionally when I took Zeke for his final walk of the day. I saw the kits once, and a neighbor reported seeing them on Fouche Gap Road.

The fox had a regular route that he followed every evening up from the woods, across our driveway and then into a neighbor’s yard. I heard them in the woods occasionally, sounding a lot like a dog, but not really mistakable for a dog.

We loved seeing the fox. It seemed that we were witnessing a part of wild nature that is rare any more, even in our rural corner of northwest Georgia. But eventually we decided that it was not a good idea for the fox to think humans were harmless. It seemed not such a good idea for either human or fox. So I started throwing rocks at him when he came into the yard.

And now we don’t see them any more.